Dive Watch Features Explained For First-Time Buyers

To the untrained eye, dive watches look just like any other sporty wristwatch on the market. Originally created for professional and recreational divers, these watches are built to withstand even the most demanding conditions. 

But even if you never plan to strap on scuba gear, these features still matter. What makes a dive watch great underwater also makes it a fantastic everyday watch. The same screw-down cap that keeps water out on a dive also protects the watch movement from dust and bumps. That sapphire crystal that resists scratching on a coral reef? It also shrugs off keys and countertops. 

You don’t need to dive to appreciate the reliability and functionality that define a dive watch. 

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the core dive watch features that separate the pros from the pretenders. You’ll learn what to look for in your first purchase, what the specs really mean, and why you don’t need to spend a fortune to get a watch that performs under pressure.

Key Dive Watch Features To Look For In Your First Dive Watch

Whether you’re planning real underwater excursions or just want a timepiece built to endure daily wear, there are certain features that define a true dive watch. Beyond aesthetic details, these functional elements of a dive watch impact performance, reliability, and wearability.

Water Resistance Rating

Water resistance is the defining trait of a dive watch and the foundation for everything else.

Most dive watches list water resistance ratings in meters or atmospheres (ATM). One atmosphere equals 10 meters of water pressure, so a 200m rating is the same as 20ATM.

Keep in mind, though, this number refers only to how the watch performs in static lab conditions, not while swimming or diving. Real-world scenarios apply pressure differently, which is why most watch experts recommend a minimum of 20ATM, which is also the ISO6425 baseline for true dive watches. If you’re planning on using your dive watch underwater, don’t settle for anything below 200 meters.

Rotating Bezel

The bezel on a dive watch is a movable ring that typically surrounds the crystal of your watch face. It’s held in place with a ratchet and spring system, creating the satisfying “clicks” as it turns. Dive watch bezels are often marked in 5- or 10-minute increments, up to 60 minutes total.

The best bezels for diving are unidirectional, only turning counter-clockwise. This is because if the bezel is accidentally bumped mid-dive, it can only move in a way that shortens your perceived dive time rather than lengthening it. That built-in safety buffer could make all the difference when you’re monitoring oxygen or decompression limits.

Before a dive, you align the bezel’s zero marker with the minute hand. As time passes, the minute hand moves forward, giving you a simple, clear way to see how long you’ve been underwater. 

The rotating bezel is also a practical everyday feature. Use it to track elapsed time for your workouts or meetings with ease.

Screw-Down Crown

The crown is the part of the watch you use to set the time and date. On most casual or dress watches, it simply pulls out for adjustments, but with a dive watch, a screw-down crown threads tightly into the watch case, forming a water-tight seal when secured. 

Before you can adjust your watch, you must unscrew it, make your changes, then screw it back in to lock everything down.

This feature was developed out of necessity in the early days of waterproof watchmaking when naval officers and divers needed gear they could rely on in harsh conditions. Today, it remains a hallmark of professional-grade dive watches.

Legibility

Dive watches are built for low-light situations. Think murky waters, dim ship decks, or a quick check during a night hike. You don’t want to squit or second-guess.

For legibility, dive watches should have:

• Large hands and bold markers - Oversized elements give your eyes something easy to lock into. Look for watches with broad arrow hands, blocky indices, and uncluttered dials. 

• Luminous hands and markers - Dive watches use lume, which is a special coating that glows in the dark after light exposure to make hands and hour markers visible in low light.

• Anti-reflective (AR) crystal coating - Many dive watches come with AR-coated sapphire crystals, which reduce glare and reflections from sunlight or overhead lighting.

• Minimal distractions - A clean, functional layout beats a flashy one when visibility is key. Dive watches typically skip ornate complications or busy sub-dials in favor of clarity and speed.

A legible dive watch makes it effortless to check the time while driving, working, or exploring—no matter the conditions.

Case Material and Durability

Whether it’s facing saltwater spray, rocky shorelines, or the occasional drop on dry land, the case material of your watch is what stands between the delicate inner workings and the outside world. 

The most common material for dive watch cases is stainless steel. It’s corrosion-resistant, scratch-resistant, and strong enough to handle bumps, scrapes, and salt. Stainless steel also adds reassuring weight to the wrist—just enough heft to feel substantial without being cumbersome. It gives the watch a polished, professional finish that looks just as good at a beachside bar as it does 100 feet underwater.

Strap Options

The ideal dive watch strap should be comfortable, functional, and made to handle water, heat, and movement without skipping a beat. 

The most common strap options include:

• Stainless steel straps - Extremely durable and corrosion-resistant, stainless steel straps are the best option for those looking for a more polished, everyday look. 

• Rubber or silicone straps - Flexible, waterproof, and lightweight, rubber straps hold tight to your wrist, resist saltwater corrosion, and are incredibly easy to clean. Many divers prefer rubber straps because they offer a snug fit and don’t become slippery or waterlogged.

• NATO or nylon straps - Lightweight, fast-drying, and incredibly durable, NATO straps weave under the case and use multiple keepers to secure the watch.

Movement Type

A watch’s movement is what drives the hands, powers the features, and ensures accurate timekeeping day after day. Understanding the different movement types can help you choose the best dive watch for your needs and lifestyle. 

• Automatic movement - Powered by the natural movement of your wrist, watches with automatic movement wind themselves as you wear them—no batteries required. 

• Quartz movement - Using a battery-powered electronic oscillator, quartz watches use electricity passed through the crystal to vibrate at a consistent frequency, keeping time with incredible accuracy. 

Best Dive Watches Under $200 From La Touraine

Subnautica

The Subnautica is a textbook example of what an entry-level dive watch should be: clean, functional, and ready for whatever the day throws at you. 

Now powered by a Seiko NH-35 automatic movement, the newly updated Subnautica balances professional-grade performance with everyday style.

Key Features:

• Water Resistance: 20ATM / 200m

• Movement Type: Seiko NH-35 automatic

• Bezel: Unidirectional ceramic bezel with C3 lume

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

• Case Material: 316L stainless steel

• Lume: C3 lume on dial and hands

• Strap: 316L stainless steel; interchangeable band system

• Case Size: 40.8mm width, 44.8mm lug-to-lug

Seafarer

For those who want their dive watch to make a statement, the Seafarer is La Touraine’s largest and boldest model. Designed for men with larger wrists—or simply larger style—it blends the elegance of vintage diver aesthetics with modern durability and automatic performance.

Key Features

• Water Resistance: 20ATM / 200m

• Movement Type: Seiko NH-35 automatic

• Bezel: Unidirectional ceramic bezel with C3 lume

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

• Case Material: 316L stainless steel

• Lume: C3 lume on hands, bezel, and numerals

• Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet (non-interchangeable)

• Case Size: 43mm width, 51mm lug-to-lug

Maritimer

Simplicity, reliability, and style—that’s the formula behind the Maritimer, La Touraine’s best-selling dive watch. It’s built with everything you need and nothing you don’t, making it the perfect daily driver for first-time dive watch buyers.

Key Features

• Water Resistance: 20ATM / 200m

• Movement Type: Miyota 2115 quartz

• Bezel: Unidirectional ceramic bezel with BGW9 lume

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

• Case Material: 316L stainless steel

• Lume: BGW9 lume on bezel, C3 lume on dial and hands

• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with milled clasp and micro-adjustments; interchangeable

• Case Size: 41.3mm width, 45.6mm lug-to-lug

Voyager GMT

Whether you’re crossing oceans, changing time zones, or just planning your next adventure, the Voyager GMT is the perfect companion. Powered by the Seiko NH-34 automatic GMT movement, this sophisticated travel watch brings international functionality to your wrist, without the premium price tag.

Key Features

• Water Resistance: 20ATM / 200m

• Movement Type: Seiko NH-34 automatic GMT

• Bezel: Unidirectional ceramic GMT bezel with BGW9 lume

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal front and sapphire exhibition case back

• Case Material: 316L stainless steel

• Lume: C3 Super-Lume on dial and hands

• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet; available in Standard or Premium; interchangeable

• Case Size: 41.9mm width, 51.2mm lug-to-lug

Commodore GMT

Designed for men on the move, La Touraine’s Commodore GMT is a mission-ready tool for tracking time across time zones. Whether you’re adventuring across the globe or navigating your daily grind, the Swiss-powered GMT keeps you grounded and moving forward.

Key Features

• Water Resistance: 20ATM / 200m

• Movement Type: Swiss Ronda 515 GMT quartz

• Bezel: Bi-directional ceramic bezel with BGW9 lume

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating

• Case Material: 316L stainless steel

• Lume: BGW9 lume on bezel, dial, and hands

• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with micro-adjust clasp; non-interchangeable

• Case Size: 40mm width, 48.2mm lug-to-lug

Dive watches may have been born beneath the waves, but their value goes far beyond the deep. The same features that protect it underwater are what make it one of the most durable, versatile, and dependable watches you can wear day-to-day. 

Whether you’re tracking bottom time or a meeting agenda, navigating open water or your morning commute, a well-made dive watch delivers reliability you can feel.